The Prosecco Wines of Bisol
Bisol, viticoltori in Valdobbiadene dal 1542
The prosecco
grape is apparently a native variety that was only grown in a small area within
the Veneto region until the 1970s when it started to be planted elsewhere in
northern Italy. Now, it is even grown in southern Italy (we were told with a
touch of distaste!).
The Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC is the only prosecco DOC in Italy and covers
some 4,300 hectares of vineyards with around 3,500 growers, in the area between
the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.
The most prestigious prosecco comes from the Cartizze zone: 106 hectares of
vineyards lying between the hills of San Pietro di Barbozza, Santo Stefano and
Saccol in the commune of Valdobbiadene.
Bisol are a family run company and, with some 50 hectares of vineyards, they are
the largest landowner in the DOC area and have been making wine since 1542
(that's twenty to four in old money). While prosecco is now known almost
exclusively for its sparkling wines, usually made by the méthode charmat, until
a century ago, all prosecco was still wine.
Most of the wines we tasted were vintage wines, though the vintage is hidden
away on the back label, and I didn't note it down for the early wines. Maybe
someone else can fill in the gaps?
Bisol
Desiderio Jeio, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC Spumante Brut
90% prosecco, 6% pinot biano, 4% verdiso, grown in vineyards at an average
altitude of 250m. Cold maceration, with skin contact overnight.
11.5% abv, 9 g/l sugar, 5.5 g/l total acidity.
Cappucino foam in the glass. Lovely malic, creamy apple nose with a touch of
sherbert. Light and round on the palate. Feels barely petillant in the mouth,
and I reckon some of that's coming from the good acidity. Nice and elegant. Very
Good/Very Good Indeed.
Bisol Crede,
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC Spumante Brut
A single vineyard Prosecco, comprising 85% prosecco, 10% pinot bianco; 5%
Verdiso, grown on the steep hills of the "Poderi Bisol" (whatever that is). The
wine's name, Crede, comes from the clay soils known as "crede".
11.5% abv; 10g/l sugar; 5.5 g/l total acidity.
A persistent foamy mousse. Elegant elderflower nose with a touch of honey. This
is a touch fuller than the Jeio, but still very soft. Drier on the finish too.
Very Good/Very Good Indeed (but I prefer the Jeio)
2003 Bisol
Garnei, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC Spumante Dry
This is not a single vineyard wine, but draws on the best grapes from all their
vineyards. 10,000 bottles produced. Garnei is a dialect word for grape seeds and
applying the name to this wine they claim refers to the careful selection of
bunches of grapes. The grapes are de-stemmed and cold macerated for fourteen
hours at 8°C. The must matures for almost a year, when the secondary
fermentation is begun using the methode charmat.
This had a citrussy nose with some leesy notes. Creamy on the palate, with some
structure. Nice fruit flavours, with some distinct pear flavours, especially on
the finish and after. Very Good Indeed.
Bisol Cartizze
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC Spumante Dry
100% prosecco, from the Cartizze sub-region. 11.6% abv; 25g/l sugar; 5.5g/l
total acidity.
An attractive, fragrant nose with pear drops. Much more demi-sec on the palate
than the preceding wines, but it has a pretty good balance. Very neat and
focussed. Very Good Indeed.
Worked very well with the sushi that was rolled in dill leaves.
2004 Bisol
Molera, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC
Molera is apparently the name for a soft greenish-yellow stone that rises to the
surface here and there. He said they use this to cook risotto.
95% prosecco; 5% verdiso; 11.8% abv; 5.2 g/l total acidity.
This is, of course, a still wine. Very light on the nose - subdued floral
elegance. Quite fragrant on the palate, but it also has a savoury note. Tails
away completely on the finish. A touch insipid and ordinary. Good.
NV Bisol Duca
di Dolle, Prosecco Passito
100% prosecco from vineyards at an average altitude of 300 metres. The grapes
are dried in the traditional passito manner before undergoing alcoholic
fermentation in stainless steel before maturing for 6-10 months in oak. The wine
then enters a stainless steel solera system, currently comprising 13 vintages.
This wine would be a blend of vintages from 1991 to 2003. Around 3500 bottles
are released each year.
13.5% abv; 100-105 g/l sugar; 6.5 g/l total acidity.
A ripe, slightly raisined nose with some tropical fruit. Sweetish on the attack.
Really quite interesting. Very nice balance. Carries its 105 g/l of sugar
remarkably well. Very Good Indeed.
Back to Andrew Stevenson's web pageî
Last updated: 15 December 2005