Lancaster Wine Fair
8 December 2007
This was a new venture, bringing together some local specialist importers, the local Oddbins and one Italian producer. Perhaps rather unfairly, I skipped over the stand of French Regional Wines, whose John Dickinson had organised the event, but it wasn't long since I had tasted the French Regional Wines portfolio (see here).
Azienda Agricola Calvi di Calvi
Andrea Mario
The nose has soft red fruit, but feels very straightforward. Decent palate. Good, simple drinking. But without any real interest. 83/100
2002 Spirit, DOC Oltrepò Pavese, Azienda
Agricola Andrea Calvi,
13.5%
Pear drops on the nose give an impression of extraction and (unless suggested
by the wine’s name) spiritiness. On the
palate, it’s dull and flat, but with a nice creaminess. Overpriced (at £7.99) for a simple
chardonnay. 83/100
2001 Neo, DOC Oltrepò Pavese, Azienda
Agricola Andrea Calvi,
13.5%
A nice minerally nose with perfume dominating some red fruits. Very fresh tasting, this has pure pinot noir
flavours, giving way to a nice structure with decent tannins on the
finish. 87/100
2001 Tre, DOC Oltrepò Pavese, Azienda
Agricola Andrea Calvi,
13.5%
A very dark colour. The nose has deep,
cherry fruit. Good structure on the
palate, but as with the nose, this feels a bit tight on the palate. Maybe it
just needs time, but I don’t find it particularly interesting at the
moment. 84/100
NV Spumante Charmat Brut, Pinot
Nero, DOC Oltrepò Pavese, Azienda Agricola Andrea Calvi, 12.5%
The nose has black fruit and peaches.
Very simple and dull on the palate, with almost a bitter note on the
finish. No interest here. 80/100
2006 Pinot Grigio, DOC Oltrepò
Pavese, Azienda Agricola Andrea Calvi, 13%
A very rich creamy nose. Very rich and
full on the palate, but with decent palate.
Very good for the price (£4.99).
85/100
Oddbins
2006 Burgans Albarino, Rias
Baixas, Martin Codax
For me, one of the strongest of the long-standing Oddbins listings, and the
2006 doesn’t disappoint. Nice, crisp and
clean with good fruit a very nice balance.
Though at £8.99 it’s now at the top of its value bracket. Very Good Indeed. 89/100
2005 Quinta de Bons-Ventos, Casa Santos Lima, Vinho Regional Estremadura, 12.5%
The nose has ripe, raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit. Very easy on the palate: soft, ripe and with
nice juicy fruit. Very good value (at
£4.99). 87/100
2003 Bodegas Palacio Rioja
Glorioso Reserva,
13.5%
Sweet vanilla wood and red fruit define the nose. The palate is nice and juicy with a clean,
fresh character. This is a good value
Rioja with a nice tannic grip on the finish.
88/100
2006 Wakefield Clare Valley Shiraz, 14.5%
A green, sawdusty nose. But the palate
is quite different: nice and clean, with a good, full flavour. Remarkably delicate and elegant, especially
given the alcohol content. 87/100
2005 Footbolt Shiraz, D’Arenberg,
Mclaren Vale,
14.5%
The nose has concentrated, jammy black fruit.
Ripe and full. Very simple and a
bit boring. 84/100
Trans-Danubia Wines & Spirits
Some excellent value, interesting drinking to be had from this new internet-based company: see their website www.trans-danubiawines.co.uk.
2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Egri,
Varsanyi Pinceszet,
12.5%
Nice minerally nose. Good, crisp, fresh
flavours, with a nice balance of acidity and fruit, though the fruit doesn’t
feel especially sauvignon-like. Falls
away a bit on the finish, but a very pleasant wine. 87/100
2003 Pécselyi Tramini, Lake
Balaton, Mészáros Pince
This has a slightly odd nose with a sort of earthy note in front of the
expected rose petal fruit. Rich and full
on the palate, almost delivering the goods of a good Alsace gewürztraminer. To me, this seems more related to
gewürztraminer than gewürztraminer, but none the worse for that. A very nice wine. 91/100
2006 Cserszegi Fűszeres, Cegled
Varos Bora, Klement György
And therein lies one of Hungarian wine’s problems when it comes
to the British
market: that really does look like a random set of letters from a
chimpanzee practising his typing skills before moving on to write a
Winter's Tale. Cszerzegi Fűszeres (meaning
something like 'Cserszeg spice' which doesn’t help that much) is the grape,
apparently a cross between one of the traminers and the Hungarian irsai oliver. Fortunately there’s no problem once you’ve
got past the label: this has a lovely fragrant, minerally nose with a slightly
muscat feel, though there’s more of a floral fragrance to it that the grapiness
of muscat. Very nice and fresh on the
palate, with a lovely balance. Lots of
interest here. Very Good Indeed. 90/100
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Egri, Száraz,
minőségi vörös Bor,
12%
And again the Hungarian labelling has defeated me, as I don’t think any of that
actually names the producer, sorry. The
wine has quite a perfumed, somewhat minerally nose with soft black fruit. In the mouth, it has a nice, soft, open,
fruity character. There’s nice spice on
the finish combined with a gentle tannic structure. So nice to get a red wine with this much
character and, for these days, such low alcohol. Very Good.
88/100
2005 Bikavér, Egri, Ostoros-Novaj, 12%
Again a
pleasingly restrained alcohol level, particularly given the full-bodied, ripe
style: Bikavér is probably better known as Bull’s Blood. This example has a very fresh, ripe, very
fruity nose (and that should make it appeal to those who would normally pick an
Australian red off the retailer’s shelf), combined with some very attractive
cherry notes and a bit of warm spice.
Soft and gently fruity on the palate, this is an easy wine to enjoy. But the simplicity of its initial impression,
gives way after a few moments in the mouth to reveal some interesting depth and
layers of flavours. Very Good. 88/100
2006 Kekfrankos Rosé, Egri,
Varsanyi Pinceszet,
12.5%
This has a remarkably strawberry nose – very sort of tinned/stewed
strawberries. Not unattractive, but its
singularity and focus does put you off your stride a bit. Still, it’s a decent rosé on the palate, if a
bit unexceptional. Fresh and clean on
the palate with sweetish strawberry fruit flavours. Whether it’s the fruit character or some real
residual sugar, this feels to be off-dry.
Good/Very Good. 86/100
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Last updated: 13 December 2007